Page 52 - Tropic Magazine Issue 32
P. 52

TROPIC  •  COFFEE















           Cost of a cuppa


           PRICE RISE
           Oliver James of Tattooed Sailor
           and Guyala Café explains how
           your coffee is priced and why
           the cost is probably going to    temperatures, slow the ripening process
                                            and protect from ‘coffee sunburn’.
           go up.                           This practice has helped the MacLaughlin

           Words: Oliver James              family at Skybury Coffee in Mareeba
                                            produce some of Australia’s best cherries.
           Mark Dundon from Melbourne’s Seven   By co-planting with papaya, the coffee
           Seeds, and father of third-wave specialty   plants at Skybury thrive.
           coffee in Australia, thinks the $7 flat white
           is coming. Maybe not this year, or next,                          We can offset the cost of green cherries by
           but here’s why.                                                   blending different origins, through which
           Climate change is one major reason.     So, when you pay $5 for   we also achieve specific flavour profiles.
           In Brazil a few months ago, an unusual                            A markup of up to three-fold is required
           frost devastated about 10 per cent of    your flat white, where does   for a five per cent profit margin.
           Brazil’s coffee. It pushed the coffee        it go?               With rising green coffee costs, our two
           price conversation into the spotlight,                            options are to source cheaper beans or
           and for good reason – Brazil grows over                           raise prices. I have always chosen
           a third of the world’s coffee, producing                          the latter. Sourcing quality ingredients
           3.48 million tonnes on average per year.                          is at the heart of my business model.
           In comparison, Australia produces   Well, from 100 kilograms of freshly   Cafes pay wholesale rates for freshly
           600 tonnes per year. The recent loss is   picked coffee fruit, the yield is about    roasted beans of between $25 and
           estimated at 348,000 tonnes, or 580 times   18 kilograms of green coffee beans.    $35 a kilo. Add milks, sugar, takeaway
           what Australia grows.            A producer in Ethiopia tells me growing   cups, labour, and overheads and in my
           With such a massive loss, green coffee   fresh cherries costs the equivalent of   experience, any cafe selling less than 18
           from Brazil has nearly doubled in price   AUD 78-90 cents per kilogram. This puts   kilos per week will unlikely see profit.
           and demand in other growing regions    the real cost of purchasing coffee beans   So, is the $7 flat white coming? I think
           has skyrocketed. This is on top of the   at about AUD $5 per kilogram, before   so. I have curiously watched the retail
           tripling of container shipping costs    labour, water, transport, packaging and   price of a beer go up to $7, or even $12 and
           since last year!                 dry mill grading costs.          higher for crafted brews. It is inevitable,
           Higher temperatures are also an issue.   At Tattooed Sailor Coffee Roasters,    and even necessary for specialty coffee
           Mauricio Salaverria is a famous coffee   we land Ethiopian coffee for around   prices to rise.
           producer I met in El Salvador, who’s   $12.50 per kilo. A few months ago,
           been planting shade cover trees over   we could land high-grade Brazilian beans   MORE: tattooedsailor.com.au
           his coffee for over 15 years to moderate   for around $5 per kilo.


               Top coffee producing countries















                                                 Annual production in tonnes



           52 • Tropic • Issue 32
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