Page 36 - Tropic Magazine Issue 29

TROPIC • WINE

Funky ferments

NATURAL WINE
Oliver James explains why
‘natties’ are fast becoming
a fun, no-fuss option for
wine drinkers.

My obsession with natural wine – fondly
known as ‘natties’ by those in the industry
– started some years ago when I hired
a skinny sommelier from Daylesford in
my cafe.
Lucas was intensely passionate about
wine, especially natural wine, and was the It was confronting.
first to pop the cork off a natty for me. Unfiltered. Nothing like
Admittedly I’m no expert, but I can
confidently say I was infatuated from I’d drunk in a wine glass
that moment. It was a Radikon; a famous before
Italian producer. This particular drop
was an orange wine which is made from
white wine grapes and given lots of
contact with the grape skins. The colour
transforms to a deep golden orange and
mouthfeel is like a red wine with loads And it was delicious. It perfectly suited
of grippy tannins. This one was made in our Cairns climate. This winemaking style has quietly
a very traditional style in huge clay pots, Natural wines often have unusual colours, been going on for years in Australia,
which gave the wine an earthiness and a textures, aromas and flavours different since a small group of friends in the
to conventional wines. My favourite part
solid kombucha funk!
is the flavour progression as the wine Adelaide Hills instigated the natural
oxidises after opening; starting with high wine movement we see today. James
acid and funky aromas that round out to Erskine produces a very elegant wine
a full fruit juice expression. from McLaren Vale in the Barossa Valley,
Philosophically, natural wines follow Tommy Shobbrook makes a wide range
organic and biodynamic principles in the of styles, and Anton Von Klopper creates
vineyard, and a minimal intervention wild, high acid, super fun textural wines
approach during winemaking. Most are from the Adelaide Hills.
sulphite-free. Flavours are expressive What many thought would be a passing
of terroir and very drinkable.Producers fad continues to captivate wine drinkers
talk them up as being fun to make, and and makers alike. It’s a break-the-rules
drinkers love that they are removed approach to winemaking, with the goal
from the hoity-toity fuss that wine squarely at making fun, very drinkable,
traditionalists espouse. no-fuss fermented juice of grapes.

36 • Tropic • Issue 29